Mont Blanc, 4 808 meters elevation, highest mountain of Western Europe.
Mountains are trendy. Social networks put on a map these unique landscapes to all the people who wanted to “be cool”. Because of Instagram (mainly), mountains are now over crowded. At some point, it can be seen positively that people are practicing sport, pushing their limits. On the other hand, hiking is sometimes underestimated and people think that everything is allowed in the mountains. High-volume music, screaming, smoking, going next to the path. All of these shits.
It becomes harder to access some of the most “touristic” hikes of the world. “Touristic” can mean the most beautiful ones (Switzerland is putting high prices on cable car to try to filter people on their mountains) or the highest ones. Taking the example of the most known Everest Ascent and the videos of the long line on the thin summit. What a privilege for narcissistic people and the likes to be on the “highest mountain of the World” ? It is definitely the same in many other countries. Mountains are now “companies” that have two different goals : earn money and/or protect the land. Kilimandjaro is asking a lot of things to go to the top in order to contribute to the local economy (cook, guide, etc.). If you want to climb Mont-Blanc, it is deeply recommended to get a shelter reservation to reach the top. Reasons are :
a. this ascent is too much seen on social network, people think they can physically reach it, but they can’t
b. to protect the security of the hikers
c. to protect the mountain and to fight against mass tourism
Shelter reservation being controlled py police guard. If you do not have one, you have to be at the right time on some strategic points in order to go.
Paradox of all the things I have written above, my friend Christian and I managed to reach the Mont-Blanc way up and down in less than 24 hours without a guide and without sleeping in a shelter. Why ? When ? How ? You will find all your answers below.
Why Mont Blanc in less than 24 hours ?
It has been six years that I am living close to the Alps. Grenoble and Lyon. I hiked a lot to discover the Region, feeling things I can’t experience somewhere else and wish to increase my mountain experience. I hiked my first 4 000 meters in 2021 with friends, without a guide, and I experienced around ten hikes on glaciers. Hiking in the Alps means to always be confronted by Mont-Blanc. The highest of the massif that we can see everywhere (even from Lyon). By asking to people that hiked the summit, they told me that, based on my mountain experience, I can do it. The question of 24 hours is different as it is hard. Asking to the same people, they told me that it becomes more and more difficult to get shelter reservation for two reasons :
a. group with a guide are privileged for the reservation
b. so many people wants to hike Mont-Blanc, thus, all the shelter are full for the less risky period just two days after the opening of the booking (around March)
First, I did not want to pay for a guide as I think I had enough experience to do it by myself. Secondly, I did not want to be stressed just for a shelter booking. Result : let’s do it without a guide and without sleeping. Yes, without sleeping as it is forbidden to do bivouac in the Mont-Blanc Massif (still to avoid mass-tourism).
My objective to climb Mont-Blanc was not a narcissistic view. Since I am living in the Alps, it has always been a kind of “goal”. A way to motivate all the hikes I have experienced to say “that will prepare me to hike Mont-Blanc one day”. Like a consecration of all the past efforts.
What to know before hiking Mont Blanc in less than 24 hours ?
Mont Blanc is a high elevation hiking. It is dangerous. Each year, people find death through this mountain because of rockfalls or icefalls. Classical path (going by Refuge / Shelter du Goûter) cross Grand Couloir then a Glacier. To start Mont Blanc challenge, mountains knowledge and competencies are needed, especially on risk evaluation. I would assume that walking in the mountains or doing trail running is NOT enough to start the Mont Blanc Ascent. I say it again, this is a high elevation hiking.
Furthermore, as every other mountains in the world, these sport challenges take place in an natural area where mass-tourism is killing this nature. Some rules have to be followed based on where you are walking. Doing Mont Blanc in 24 hours is definitely not forbidden. Walking out of the path, taking flowers and other are. Please, follow the rules in order to preserve the most beautiful landscapes of the world.
Finally, what you have to know before the Ascent is that your ego has to be in your pocket. Your problems will become problems of the other people. Pushing your limits to far and taking risk will be a danger for other people. You are walking on a high elevation and risky playground. Failing is possible. Humility is the best quality that people can have.
When hiking Mont Blanc in less than 24 hours ?
Years are different. Especially in winter. What will be the quantity of snow ? What will be the temperatures in winter ? Spring ? All those questions to imagine what will be the hiking conditions on the glaciers and rocks path.
In 2023, summer has been super hot. The best gap to climb Mont-Blanc by foot was mid to end of June. 2024 has been different. The winter has not been so cold in the valley but the amount of snow was crazy on high altitudes. Furthermore, the start of the summer was not as hot as we have been experiencing for a few years.
When we planned our hike, our plan was to do it in mid June. Finally, we decided to change our plan to mid of July for the reason explained above.
How hiking Mont Blanc in less than 24 hours ?
Incoming Factors to take into account :
_ Car Parking : Saint Gervais Mont Blanc
_ Path : Normal Path on the way to Refuge du Goûter
_ Selected Days : Friday 19th of August to Saturday 20th of August
_ Guide Booked : NO
_ Number of People : 2 (Christian and I)
– Weather
a. Friday 19th : High level clouds, no sun, around 20 degrees
b. Night between 19th and 20th : Clear Sky, no clouds
c. Saturday 20th Morning: Low level clouds under 4000 m, full clear sky
d. Saturday 20th Afternoon : Clear sky, high temperatures above 30 degrees.
_ Tap water access on the Shelters : NO
_ Shelter Reservation : NO
Written Movie – Mont Blanc in less than 24 hours
15h30 – Bellevue Railway Station – 1 800 meters
As I mentioned above, we could not reach Nid d’Aigle Railway Station as we did not have a shelter reservation. The girl from Saint Gervais Station told us that the police guard based in Nid d’Aigle will not let us go if we stop there. Thus, final stop for us at Bellevue. We could go to Mont Lachat but the path from there looked a bit technical for a start. We took the choice to do 300m elevation more but on an easier and flater path.
Our goal is to manage our effort, to not push too much and keep our clothes dry. Weather is with us. It’s cloudy, high altitude clouds, and the temperature is perfect, around 20 degrees.
Christian and I are good hikers, especially from a pace point of view. Our goal is to go on the top, not to be the fastest. That’s why we are managing our effort, we are walking around 300m D+ / hour.
17h15 – Refuge / Shelter du Nid d’Aigle Shelter – 2 372 meters
17h30 – Leaving Refuge / Shelter du Nid d’Aigle Shelter – 2 372 meters
We do not meet any people going up to the shelters (Nid d’Aigle, Tête Rousse, Goûter) or to Mont Blanc.
Hiking high peaks is often during the night or early morning. Many people that we are meeting in their descent ask us what are we doing and what are our goals.
No police guard was seen at this point.
20h00 – Refuge / Shelter de Tête Rousse – 3 167 meters
Before crossing the glacier to reach Tête Rousse Shelter, a shed has been built for the police guards. It is written “Mandatory Shelter Reservation Control”. It is 20h00 and the shed is closed. Gods are with us. Still, I do not know what could have be their answer to our Mont Blanc hike plan in 24 hours. Different possibilities :
a. they understand our plan: we can go up to Refuge du Gouter
b. they think it is too late for us today : we stop for the night to Tête Rousse Shelter and can go next morning (we do not have sleeping bag in our bags, we are walking light)
c. they do not agree at all : we go down
By arriving at Tête Rousse Shelter, we call attention to a girl working in the shelter. She looks worried about us. We explain our plan. She sees that we are looking fit and have all the materials in order to reach the summit. Thus, it is good, also because our plan is to buy bottles of water and get a coffee to the Shelter before continuing our road.
20h30 – Leaving Refuge / Shelter de Tête Rousse – 3 167 meters
20h45 – Starting the Grand Couloir Ascent – around 3 200 meters
Starting the Grand Couloir Ascent at this time of the day means to NOT HAVE any people around us, both ways. Only the people from Tete Rousse Shelter are watching us from their balcony. The path is at the level of what is said on internet. There are heights, rock falls, and it is mainly hands climbing. I love “safe” hands climbing without ropes. However, we have to consider that it is hard and dangerous section. Amators cannot do that, people needs mountains competencies through this section.
21h30 – Sunset from the Grand Couloir – around 3 550 meters
The sun is out for the first time of the day. The lights are changing, colors on the mountains too. Incredible moment in one of the most famous part of the Mont Blanc hike. We are alone in it.
22h30 – Refuge / Shelter du Goûter – 3 835 meters
By ending the Grand Couloir Ascent, we arrive to the old Refuge / Shelter du Goûter which is closed. This one is closed because it is not safe anymore. It is normal to reach first the old one, Grand Couloir ends there. 500 meters of Glacier walk is needed to reach the famous “new” Refuge / Shelter du Goûter. We put our spikes/ crampons for the 500 meters distance. We decide to not attach ourselves with the rope. We did not use it in the Grand Couloir.
We arrive to the Shelter / Refuge du Goûter. Everyone is sleeping. Bed time is around 20h00 in these high elevation shelters (Refuge / Shelter du Goûter is the highest of France). Especially for high altitude hikes like Mont Blanc. Our goal is to take a break for four hours to the Shelter to get rest on the stairs. The common room is closed. Breakfast time is written at 2:00 am. We take off our spikes / crampons and shoes in the materials room. Be careful that if police guards are based in Refuge / Shelter du Goûter, they can give you a penalty to be in the stairs during the night. Shelter reservation is the only solution in order to avoid any risk.
There is a movement detection for lights. Our three hours of “sleep” are shit. We can’t sleep, just getting rest.
01h30 – Refuge / Shelter du Goûter – 3 835 meters
First Group of alpinists are leaving the shelter (without taking breakfast). They walk around us while we are lying down on the stairs. Other groups are starting to wait for breakfast. We have to “wake up”.
02h00 – Refuge / Shelter du Goûter – 3 835 meters
It is breakfast time. The room is almost full. We order two coffees and some bottles of water (9,00€ each). Prices is fucking expensive. We are at 3 835 meters. Things have to be carried there.
We feel the altitude. Not a painful headache but small vertigo. We take aspirin (Doliprane 1000mg).
02h45 – Refuge / Shelter du Goûter – 3 835 meters
We are in the materials room. Many alpinists are there too to get ready for Mont Blanc Ascent. Shoes are on, spikes / crampons too. We put the rope on us outside. As every Ascent I do on a Glacier, I train from home in front of a Youtube Tutorial. Nodes seems safe. We controlled it together. It is starting.
03h30 – On our way to Dôme du Goûter – around 4 000 meters
Night is dark but clear. Many stars are out. We are focused on our steps. Our headlamps are working well.
04h00 – Around Dôme du Goûter – around 4 250 meters
Unique section where the path is flat. The distance is still long. Since the start, we can see the headlamps of the other group of Alpinists. There are some but it’s not over crowded. The path is going next to the Dôme du Goûter. It means that we do not have to reach it to go to Mont Blanc.
04h30 – Refuge Vallot – 4 362 meters
Often seen on maps, Refuge Vallot is a small cabin where Alpinists can take a break (it is forbidden to bivouac inside). After almost 2 hours of Ascent, our wish is to take a 20 minute break in order to drink and eat some chocolate sticks. There are around 10 people inside. Christian looks exhausted but fine. Strangely, I am fine. Our Aspirin (Doliprane) seems to have worked well.
There is internet data in Refuge Vallot. I send a safe message to my parents.
05h00 – Arrête des Booses – around 4 500 meters
Grande Bosse, Petite Bosse. “Bosse” can mean “hills”. Anyway, it is fucking steep. Alpinist feet are well shaped in the snow/ice. Like (very) steep stairs gap. I manage the rope, Christian is behind me. It is becoming harder for him, I often feel the rope getting tight/tensioned.
Lights are starting. We can almost turn off our headlamps. Sunrise should be at 06h02.
06h05 – Last section of the Ascent – around 4 650 meters
Christian is asking for a break. He looks fucking dead. I am asking him “Do you feel it ? Do you want to continue ? Do not lie to me. Do not forget that if we go up, then we have to do all the way down.” His response is “Give me some break and we are going to the summit”.
There is still internet data. I sent a new message to my parents “4 640m, I have the feeling that we can do it”.
06h30 – Mont Blanc Summit – 4 808 meters
Message to my parents “I swear we are on Mont Blanc Summit”.
The summit is a Dome. Many people can fit all together in the same time. Nothing compared to Everest images. We meet by coincidence two girls from Refuge / Shelter du Goûter staff. They gave us our coffee this morning. They are happy for us. We told them this morning about our “one-shot Ascent”. We take photos for them. They do the same for us. The moment is full of emotions, without tears but with many thoughts to my father that brings me first to the mountains. We stay around 15 minutes to the summit.
I said in the introduction that Mont Blanc would be a consecration to all the hikes I have done before. It is a consecration.
06h45 – Mont Blanc Summit – 4 808 meters
The worst is coming, we have to go down.
09h00 – Refuge / Shelter du Goûter – 3 835 meters
Christian and I are dying. We did not sleep since 25 hours. At this point, we have made 3 200m positive elevation for 1 200 negative elevation. The worst is coming with Grand Couloir way down and the
distance left to the Railway Station.
We are trying to take time to rest in the common room of the Refuge / Shelter du Goûter. I am trying to get some sleep on the bench. Coming back from the toilets, Christian orders soups and coffees for both of us. I can’t eat anything, I just want to puke after putting something in my mouth. Something additional to know is the soup taste: disgusting.
10h30 – Refuge / Shelter du Goûter – 3 835 meters
Still dying. No way to get sleep. We have to go. Going late in the Grand Couloir can be risky with rockfalls. We are dying but focus on the path. For logistics, we decide to NOT set up the rope and spikes / crampons for the 500 meters distance between new and old Refuge / Shelter du Goûter.
12h00 – Refuge / Shelter de Tête Rousse – 3 167 meters
Yesterday’s Ascent looked more impressive than today’s Descent. Still, there are heights in the Grand Couloir but euphoria from yesterday decreased. We knew what to expect. Even if I am fucking tired, I love those climbing path. I take a lot of pleasure to go down. Christian is going at his pace. I am waiting Christian on the rockfalls section. We have seen many since the start of Grand Couloir. The goal is to watch out if some rocks are falling. If not, going fast to walk on this 30 meters dangerous section.
Everything went well. We are going down on our ass on the snow section of Glacier de Tête Rousse.
The Police Guard shed is open. Two police guards are controlling and watching people in the Grand Couloir. Now, we do not care, we have done our Ascent.
12h20 – Chemin des Rognes – 2 840 meters
We decide to not take the same path as yesterday. Chemin des Rognes should guide us to Lachat Railway Station and save us 300m of negative elevation.
14h30 – Lachat Railway Station – 2 000 meters
We arrived, we are done. The discent was so fucking long, boring and exhaustive. The summit is already far from our mind. We want to sleep. We do not realize what we have done. I do not know if we have to realize something. Many people are doing Mont Blanc. Maybe not in this way, but still. Our goal through this Ascent was not to “be someone”. Just doing it like a child’s dream.
19h00 – Lyon – 181 meters
We are at home, in Lyon. Quick shower and… Good night.
Minewhile 