The Alternative Guide to Ile d’Yeu

L’île d’Yeu is a small Island of 23 km² in the region of Vendée, France. I can’t remember just one summer I didn’t go to l’île d’Yeu. It has been 25 years I got the chance to see this place every summer. I call it Paradise on Earth. My family bought a house there in 2009 and when I was still a student, I spent 6 weeks in a row on the island and, trust me, when it comes to go back to the real life, it’s hard! You need to take a boat to go to the island, so you truly disconnect from earth. Sadly, my parents sold the house in 2021 but we still go on holidays at l’île d’Yeu because we are too attached to this place.

If you like nature, calm, bicycle, and seafood you are at the right place! Here is the top 10 of things to do at l’île d’Yeu.

Article about the best beaches at l’île d’Yeu coming soon.

Port Joinville is the main harbour, the capital, of the island. This is where you are going to land with the boat. Port Joinville lives mainly in the morning and in the evening since people go at the beach the rest of the day.

The best thing to do in Port Joinville is the market and have a coffee in the morning. The morning, the port is very crowded (even more in july and august) but the atmosphere is joyful with the market where you can find local product such as vegetables, fish, seafood, prune jam (delicious local specialty), aromatic plants syrups or ice cream (thyme, rosemary, verbena…) and of course bread, cheese, meat, flowers… You will aslo find what you need to read during your holidays at La Maison de la Presse (20 rue de la République) in the small streets behind. These streets welcome a lot of small shops of clothes, shoes, jewelery and decoration. You’ll want to buy everything.

The morning in Port Joinville is also the time to go to a café to read the news and enjoy the atmoshpere. You’ll see that you will not be the only one!

By night, Port Joinville is the place to be. I used to spend my nights sitting on the docks, talking with my friends and meeting new ones. You will see people sitting on te docks around 11 pm. It is a good way to spend your night if you are under 20, but if you are older you may find yourself too old. Otherwise, the best places to spend your evening in Port Joinville are :

• BDM café – to have a drink (morning or evening) : nice atmosphere and good music. 27 quai Carnot, Port Joinville.
• L’équateur – to have a drink (morning or evening) : nice atmosphere and located in the middle of the dock. 5 quai Carnot, Port Joinville.
• L’escadrille – to have a drink (morning or evening) : often some live band in the evening. 45 quai Carnot, Port Joinville.
• Snack Martin – to have diner : the best crepes in universe (you have to try the salty and sweet ones but above all the classic sugar butter!) and they also serve mussels. 18 rue de la République, Port Joinville.
• La plancha du pêcheur – to have diner : magical view on the entrance of the port to see boats come and go while eating fresh fish (sardines, grilled tuna, fish&chips…). 13 place de la Norvège, Port Joinville.
• La Réserve du Bouchon – to have diner and/or a drink : typical french food like charcuterie, cheese, foie gras and wine. It is served on plate to share like tapas (or not) and they have a small rooftop out of sight. 11 rue Georgette, Port Joinville.

La Pointe des Corbeaux is the place I grew up. We used to rent a house here for few years. It is my favorite place on the island (even on earth). You can enjoy both the dune side and the cliff one. You have the choice between the big and beautiful beach, the creeks, you can find shelter form the wind on the small port or adventure yourself in the rocks of the cliffs (be careful of the waves). I love the small fisherman’s hut and the view on the amazing red lighthouse. It is also a perfect spot for early birds to catch a sunrise.

Saint Sauveur is a high up village of white houses with colored shutters. If you look at the houses over the island, they are all like that. That is part of the charm of the island. In Saint Sauveur you can hang in the little sloping streets (take a look, you may be able to see the ocean!) and visit the market. The church also worth the detour. The best places to have a drink in Saint Sauveur:

• A l’abri des coups de mer – to have a coffee and read the newspaper. 54 rue du Général Leclerc, Saint Sauveur.
• La Dilettante – to have a glass of wine (they don’t serve coffee), perfect before lunch or after the beach in late afternoon. 75 rue du Général Leclerc, Saint Sauveur.

La cueillette allows outdoor fruit and vegetable picking. This place is peaceful. You pick what you need and then you go meet François, the owner, to his shelter to pay your harvest. He is an old man with a lot of stories to tell. He will weigh your picking with and old balance. This is truly a good experience to make at l’île d’yeu and also one of the best tomatoes you could eat. Note : cash only.

Port de la Meule is a charming little harbour. I suggest you walk around the port toward the stone tower and also on the cliff so you can see the Chapelle de la Meule. It’s a tiny white chapel facing the large ocean. Beautiful. To go on the cliff, pass through the Bar de la Meule’s terrace, you will see the path.

• Le Vagabond – to have a crepe. 135 rue de la Meule, Port de la Meule.
• Bar de la Meule – to have a drink, snack or diner. 149 rue de la Meule, Port de la Meule.

Tarte aux pruneaux. A prune pie with the famous prune jam flavored with rhum and a puff pastry. It’s delicious with a vanilla ice cream and a coffee. Here, we call it “Tarte de la mariée” – the bride pie – because it was the traditional dessert of the marriage. You can buy one at Mousnier or Le Feu de d’Yeu.

Patagos. White shellfish cooked with cream and garlic or mustard. It is possible to buy some at the fish shop (go early) if you feel like cooking it yourself or at the restaurant : Snack Martin and Bar de la Meule.

Thon fumé. Smoked tuna that you will find at the supermarket. Delicious with lemon, bread and butter.

Baguette d’Enfer. It is just a baguette but it is a traditional one baked in a wood-fired oven. Really one of the best baguette I tried in my life.