The Alternative Guide to Marseille

I will update this post as soon as I discover new spots.

(You will find below Marseille’s guide. Calanques National Park’s guide is here, click to read the guide.)

I got the chance to be guide to Marseille thanks to my studies. This city does not sound good to people who keep an eye on the TV or in the newsaper. Indeed, Marseille is big. It is the second biggest city in France. It is a cosmopolitan way of life and you can find suburbs and social disparity as in any other French cities. It is sad to essentially judge Marseille on that point of view. First of all, you have to know that Marseille is one of the most beautiful city of France. You will never regret a visit in Marseille if you know… where to go.

Marseille is a piece of beauty. It is always sunny, the sea sounds peaceful and people are kind. When they speak to you, you always have the feeling that they play an actor role. They are doing so much for nothing. It is what make Marseille and its habitants unique and warm. The Calanques National Park is also something extraordinary. It is mother nature just at ten minutes by bus from the city center. It is definitely one the most beautiful French National Park. Then, something to be aware about Marseille before to go is the wind called “Mistral”. It can be worst than the rain. It is so strong that it can really affect your trip.

In this small article, I will show you areas mainly known by people who knows Marseille, but not always from tourists. I spend hours and hours walking around the sea side, the Calanques and I promise you that if you read this article, you will love Marseille as much as I love her.

1- Malmousque District

Malmousque is part of Endoume district. Let’s say that it is the sea side of the district, and what a side… Accross all these beautiful houses, there are many secrets that you have to see before leaving Marseille. This part of the city is where I have spend many time to chill and to enjoy georgeous sunsets. I took the photo that you can find above on the top of the Villa Valmer Park which is easily accessible.

Anse de Malmousque

Anse de Malmousque is this kind of small fisher harbour that you can occasionnaly find in Marseille if you are a city explorer. There are not many places like that in Marseille, however, when you face one, it is always a huge surprise. Anse de Malmousque is probably the one I prefer. It is calm, you can go on balcony of private houses to enjoy the view, and then you can chill on the rocks at the end of the Anse in order to enjoy the sun and relax. Do not hesitate to take a bath too.

Malmousque Coastal Path

If you have any trouble to find this coastal path, go at the end of the “Rue Notre Dame des Grâces” and then walk along the seaside. This area is not well known by the tourists. It should be around 200 meters to walk. From this path, you will definitely see Marseille  from another perspective with nice spots to relax on the beach or in the rocks. It is also such a great place to drink beers with friends and to enjoy magical sunsets.

Anse de Maldormé

This time, this Anse is not a harbour. It can be qualified more like a “secret” beach. I do not have many words to describe this place. I have been with so many people to show them what is the real potential of Marseille and nobody has been disappointed by seeing this place. I just have a small comment to write about this place and overall Marseille’s sea sides. Sometimes, it is a dirty place due to the ocean. It is often explained by the wind which brings a lot of plastics to the coast. Thus, do not think it is only because Marseille is dirty. Hell no. Sometimes these plastics simply comes from Spain, Italy or North-Africa.

Plage de la Fausse-Monnaie

One more location in Malmousque. I definitely wrote all the possible areas in this district, however, trust me, I prefer to write everything instead of seeing someone forget to go in one of these piece of beauty. The Fausse-Monnaie beach (write Plage de la Fausse Monnaie on your GPS to be sure to find it) can be directly seen from the Corniche John Fitzgerald Kennedy. It is the perfect way to end your road tour in Malmousque.

2- Montredon and Madrague District

These districts are still not secret but it is really not where the tourist books will guide you in. On my way to the Goudes, I stopped once in the Montredon bus stop and I have not been disappointed at all. There are many beaches, coastal path, beautiful houses and graffiti that are not known at all. If you decide to stop to Montredon, then you have to go by walk to Madrague, both areas are close from each other. That’s a great alternative tour in Marseille before to join the Goudes. You will not see many tourists and those districts are quiet and peaceful.

Anse des Sablettes

Hidden spot in Montredon. Not many beaches are accessible from these district but this one have is charimastic with its fisher houses all along the beach. I would definitely recommand you to go if you plan to visit Montredon.

Madrague District

Madrague itself. As any person who likes to explore and visit non-touristic places, you will not be shocked if I tell you that it is the district itself where you have to walk around. If you are someone peaceful, who likes to wake up early and to enjoy the morning sun, go to Madrague (and Montredon) to walk around. Then, continue your exploration to the next location that I present you below…

3- La Baie des Singes

I anticipate any hater who will say that it is a touristic spot. That’s true, la Baie des Singes, at the end of the Goudes, is touristic and known. People from Marseille knows that it is a magical place to walk with its family or friends and I am sure that you will find this area in touristic books. Indeed, I write this location because it has to be seen in a trip to Marseille. The atmosphere, the boats which enter into the channel are sometimes beautiful and just to get the chance to swim in this area is awesome. Les Goudes and la Baie des Singes are quite far from Marseille city-center but you can easily catch a bus to les Goudes and then going by walk to la Baie des Singes. From la Baie des Singes, you will see in front of you Maire Island (l’Île Maire). Even if the channel is not that large and you can swim until this island, it is forbidden to enter and walk on this land.

4- Côte Bleue (Blue Coast)

Calanques National Park, in the South of Marseille, is worldwide known. However, that’s not the case for the Côte Bleue that you can see at the North West of Marseille. On this side, I am sure that you will enjoy and love as much as you can love Calanques. This part of Marseille is more green than Calanques, there are a lot of beaches, calanques (Calanques is the name of the national park but it is essentially a word which means small hidden beach), and villages. Once with a friend, we went to the Côte Bleue to Ensuès-la-Redonne by train and we came back by walk to Marseille. It took approximately six to seven hours to join l’Estaque and to catch a bus. Trust me, you will (one more time) not be disappointed. Moreover, this train connection is known as one of the most beautiful of France. I would definitely recommend you to catch it.

Calanque de l’Île de l’Erevine

The beach that I preferred the most during my long hike in the Côte Bleue. As you can see on the photo, everything is reunited on this beach to spend an unforgettable moment. There is a tower (why? Idk), there is a bridge where the train connection is working, the water is azul and there is even a small island where you can swim. If you are lazy to do a long hike and you just want to enjoy the sun, I would recommend you to spend your time on this one.

Calanque des Figuières & Port Méjean

I cannot write all the spots that you have to see on this 20 kilometers coast but here are two other ideas to stop on your way. These Côte Bleu locations are accessible by car. Which is not the case for Calanque de l’Île de l’Erevine.

5- Roucas Blanc & Bompard Districts

In order to go out a bit from nature spots and the famous city-center of Marseille, I recommend you to be lost in both districts. That’s mainly residential areas. In fact, you will not find many coffees or stores. Roucas Blanc and Bompard can also be a good way to join from another side the Basilique Notre Dame de la Garde. Marseille is known for graffiti and you will definitely have the opportunity to see beautiful graffitis there. There are also many hidden stairs that allow you to have great views on the sea or basilique. I walked many times through both districts and everytime I enjoy the time I spend here. I always got the feeling to see and discover something else.

Jardin de la Colline – Traverse des Amoureux & Rue des Tartares

To give you an idea of what you can find in both districts, you can try to join the Jardin de la Colline (do not make a confusion with Jardin de la Colline Puget which is not the same place at all). This spot will allow you to walk around small streets, and to join a nice garden to get a great view on Marseille. Do not be afraid to be lost in this area. That’s really calm.

La Bonne Mère – Marseille’s Best Pizza

Everyone has already faced this moment: “Oh, let’s eat a pizza today and let’s find which one is the best in town”. My girlfriend and I did exactly the same thing that you and many websites guide us to La Bonne Mère. In order to eat inside, we needed to make a reservation a day before (and we were lucky, take more advance) because this place is small and known by many people from Marseille. If you get a chance to eat inside, congratulations, you are now part of the crew. If you cannot enter, I think you can order to take away. Real fact about this pizzeria, pizzas are good and people working there are really warm and kind.

6- Conservatoire à Rayonnement Régional – Place Auguste et François Carli

Until the last day of my stay in Marseille I could discover unique places in this city. I definitely consider this building as an hidden gem of Marseille. The Regional Conservatory host a magnificent courtyard. The building colors looks a bit like Toulouse. If you can enter and have the chance to take some pictures of the courtyard, you will be really lucky and surprised by the potential of this place.

7- Additional and touristic places to see in Marseille

Corniche John Fitzgerald Kennedy – This is the unmissable part of Marseille. I advice you to walk along this road and to do not bother people with your car. The best itinerary is to start from Plage des Catalans, then going to the Vallon des Auffes, stopping to Malmousque and all the places that I adviced you above. Then going until Plage du Prophète.

Vallon des Auffes – This is probably the most famous harbour of Marseille after the “Vieux Port”. It is known because it is awesome and beautiful. Some restaurants (expensive one) also make the reputation of this place. You have to go to Vallon des Auffes when you visit Marseille, it is mandatory.

Le Panier – Le Panier can be compared to Cours Julien. I think it is even more famous and it is not a surprise if this district is one of the most touristic of Marseille. The pleasure to be lost accross these small streets covered by graffiti is something to feel. Definitely an unmissable spot in Marseille.

MUCEM – This museum is one of the heritage of the nomination of the city as European Capitale of the Culture 2013. The touristic side of Marseille increased thanks to this title and MUCEM is nowadays an unmissable place when you visit the city. You will hardly find something like that in the world. The architecture and the photo potential of this place is really high.

Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde – Simply her. I hope you are in shape, she is waiting for you.

Plage du Prophète – There are many beaches with sand close to Marseille city center. This one is the one I prefer the most. Its location in the middle of the Corniche makes it something nice and beautiful. If you are seeking for a beach with sand during spring or summer, it is probably the one I would recommend. However, I am sure that it will be super crowdy. 

Cours Julien – Marseille residents like graffiti. At least they like to paint on the wall, however, I am not sure the habitants like what is written. Anyway. Cours Julien is  one of artistic district of Marseille where you can find nice concept stores and coffees.

L’Estaque – This district is not an unmissable area to go in a trip to Marseille. However, if you have really walked everywhere is the city and you still have an afternoon to spend, please, take the direction to l’Estaque. As les Goudes (not the same potential), it is like a small village which is part of Marseille. You will also find Marseille’s best churros there in a small caravan in the middle of the main square.

8- Stores in Marseille

You can find into this list few stores where I enjoyed to spend time. I am sure that some of you will like to be lost into these beautiful and interesting shops:

Maison Empereur – 4 Rue des Récolettes – One of the oldest (if it is not the oldest) store of Marseille. You can find e.v.e.r.y.t.h.i.n.g in this shop. It is really huge and it takes place on three floors. There is a coffee inside and even a second store on the opposite corner of the road dedicated to clothes. This shop is an unmissable place to go in Marseille.

Honoré Décoration – 121 Rue Sainte – One day, I had the pleasure to meet Honoré’s Décoration path. Indeed, this shop is nowadays this kind of place you want to see at any city corner. You can find beautiful decoration, books, and whatever you need in order to have a beautiful house. Honoré is perfect to bring home a present for you or some of your friends. If you are this kind of person who loves beautiful (and huge) stores, come to Honoré.

Bourse Frézet Library – 8 Rue Paradis – Marseille is around 1 million people. That’s a lot and for any book lover, you will definitely find what you need in this city. If I could recommend just one Library in Marseille, it would be Bourse Frézet Library. The paradox is that all the books are written in… French. Sorry.

Road ID – 56T Rue d’Italie – I am not a bike lover as I am not a huge reader to advice you to go to a library. I just love to be lost in nice places, even stores where I do not have many knowledge. Road IT is great and beautiful. The guys inside are doing a great job and they built an awesome store for any bike lovers.

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